Fashion Temperature: Berlin
Berlin: undisputedly a global hub for art, music, and style—but not typically listed among the world’s fashion capitals. That said, a considerable amount of fashion news has emerged from the German capital lately. This summer, established brands like GmbH and Shayne Oliver’s Anonymous Club returned to Berlin to present their collections for Spring & Summer 2025. Meanwhile, shows by rising designers like Richert Beil, Sia Arnika, and Lueder caused a buzz far beyond Berlin borders.
Playing a key role in both the new-wave support and old-wave comeback is INTERVENTION: an initiative by communications agency Reference Studios, which recently completed its second run. Under the creative vision of Mumi Haiati, the four-day event—staged as part of BFW, but curated independently—has been laying the groundwork for a fresh fashion foundation. So, what is Berlin’s current fashion temp? We asked GmbH founders Serhat Isik and Benjamin Alexander Huseby, Richert Beil-designers Jale Richert and Michele Beil, and Intervention co-founder Mumi Haiati.
GmbH was born in Berlin back in 2016. How has your perspective on the city evolved since then and how does that play into your current work?
Serhat: We always loved living and working in Berlin, precisely because it’s not really a fashion industry here, and you could feel a sense of detachment from that world here.
Benjamin: The easiest way to explain the change of the city: when I first moved here everyone I met worked in art or music, now I only seem to meet new people working in tech.
Why did you choose to go back to Berlin for your SS25 presentation? And how does that connect to the idea of ‘Resistance Through Rituals’?
Benjamin: Considering the rise of fascism in Germany, both explicit and more hidden, we wanted to celebrate the community who is fighting against the right-wing political repression happening here. Of course many other places in the world are going through a similar fascist waves, but right now it feels especially important to build strong communities where you live—which for us is Berlin. This community that’s been built over the last months in Berlin we have called ‘the Resistance’.
Serhat: The idea of resistance to us is not only in explicit political actions, but also in the every day, in how you live and move through life, for instance as a trans or BIPOC person. And that was very much what our fashion show was about.
How important is Berlin’s creative community for Richert Beil?
The German heritage is deeply connected with our work, Berlin in specific. Berlin is inspiring for its rich and complex history of activism, diverse cultures and identities, thriving art and culture scene, vibrant night life, value for innovation and experimentation, and its remarkable resilience in the face of challenges. All of these aspects contribute to a sense of openness, acceptance, and creativity that makes Berlin an inspiring city and influences our work. Berlin is the breeding ground for our work and the access to our community.
Are you optimistic about Berlin’s fashion realm?
Berlin has always been rich in talent, but it has lacked the necessary infrastructure, creative direction and curation. Currently, there is a momentum that gives us hope. With the strength of exceptional brands currently emerging and the support of the government, it is probably possible to build something unique. However, designers in Berlin with the potential to grow still need much more financial support and opportunities to thrive within Germany.
Why and how did you decide to set up INTERVENTION, and what’s its added value to the Berlin fashion landscape?
INTERVENTION was born in the spirit of an elevation for Berlin Fashion Week. By appointment of the senate, we have set out to cultivate a new desirability that represents the essence of Berlin. A “fashion identity” out of Berlin and into the world—true to the spirit of the city but outside of the cliché. By acting as an incubator we create great relevancy for press and buyers alike. We want to shake things up, radically and collaboratively, to achieve longevity. We disrupt the existing environment by elevating standards as part of and within Berlin Fashion Week.
INTERVENTION showcases a generation of upcoming designers, but also brings international brands and designers back to Berlin.
Ultimately, it’s all about curation. We need to build trust in order to establish a new quality. With both upcoming designers and international brands, there is a positive impact in both directions.
Looking at the international visibility of Berlin-based designers and other (fashion) creatives, there currently seems to be an upward motion?
Yes. And we are here for it. We want to take things to the next level.
Knowing the Berlin scene inside-out, are you feeling optimistic about the city’s current fashion climate?
I am! Berlin is a creative hub with an impact on the cultural landscape globally. It’s not even limited to fashion. There is a specifically huge potential for brand experiences due to the city’s diversity and scene, and its highly cultural crowds.
Text by Leendert Sonnevelt.