CHARLES JEFFREY

Do you accumulate a lot?

I’m definitely a hoarder. I go through stages where I hoard, and then I have moments where I suddenly decide I need to get rid of a lot. But I do find it hard to get rid of things. My process of design involves working with old clothes and old toiles and cutting them up. It’s my primary research.

That must make it hard to know what to throw away.

You’re right. My studio manager Naomi always tells me to get rid of stuff but I just can’t. I don’t like it. I have a lot more in storage, in an archive.

So how much have you gotten rid of?

I got rid of quite a lot of tat. I got rid of a lot of shirts because they were all dirty. They had so much make-up all over the collar – all sorts of irremovable grime. You know when you wash a shirt too much and then you get sweat marks and all that stuff?

The bane of my life.

They weren’t really important shirts, maybe Primark or vintage ones, or old ones that we’d made and there was just no saving them. There were also lots of T-shirts that I accumulated over time. There’s not a lot you can do with those. Whereas coats and jackets and things like that I always think have so much more potential.

Why?

Because of the nature of how they are constructed: there are more elements to them, there are more ingredients, there’s more fabric and they have more presence. There’s a lot more for me to explore. Especially with gentlemen’s coats, there’s a lot more symbolism and structure that you can then subvert a little bit – same with tailoring.

How much vintage do you buy?

I get a clothing budget every season. I pay myself 500 quid and use a lot of what I find for primary research.

What kind of things do you look for?

I like military wear a lot. I like uniforms. My dad was in the army, so I’ve always liked military clothes. I like knitwear. I rarely buy designer vintage because it’s not as cost effective. The design for our bestselling jumper this season started from an Argyle knit that I bought in Aberdeen for about 50p.

Do you wear these clothes yourself? Or are they for research only?

A bit of both. Some things are more of an investment and I’ll keep them in my personal wardrobe. With others, I know straight away that I’ll be cutting them up or there’s just a single detail or technique or fabrication that I’m interested in.

Where do you go shopping? Do you have any good tips?

I could really do with widening my net a bit more! Scotland is where I get a lot of my stuff because it’s a lot cheaper and a lot of strange, interesting things wind up there, waiting to be discovered. Like this jacket – I got this in Glasgow.

That’s nice. Could you describe it?

It’s a tonal brown suede jacket. You can try it on if you like.

I’d love to. I’m just going to take off my jumper because I’m boiling.

Of course, do what you need to do. There’s a mirror over there when you’re ready. It’s a super jacket, really slimming. Glasgow’s the best place for ’70s vintage.

This is great, huge lapels. I like that the zip stops short so it doesn’t fasten all the way.

That’s a nice detail. You can see your belt, which is good. I like your T-shirt.

Thank you. I got it at a Fall gig.

I fucking love The Fall. I want to do a night called Bombast, after the song. There’s no good gay indie nights that I can think of.

I really like what Mark E. Smith is wearing on this T-shirt: a cropped Argyle sweater and an open shirt.

You could totally pull that look off. There’s one image of him where he’s on a bed and he has on a white shirt, black trousers and red socks. Do you know it?

I don’t.

He looks so fit. Young Mark E. Smith was totally fit.

What’s that tartan you’ve got pinned up next to you?

This is our Loverboy tartan. It’s registered now.

Like an actual clan tartan?

Yes! You have to apply to the tartan registry and then you have to pay them a bit of money and then they’ll approve it. There are people who are tartan collectors, who are like stamp collectors, and they now message me asking for snippets. It’s funny.

You’re quite a fan of kilts and skirts for men, aren’t you? I remember the first show of yours that I saw was the final one you did as part of MAN (Autumn and Winter 2017), and there was this guy in a double-breasted blazer and a tiny little skirt. It was such a good look: a formal miniskirt for men.

We’re doing one again this season. I want it to be really quite high up so you can just see the bulge. I think there’s something really sexy about that. Guys have fucking great legs, and the funny thing I found out recently is that in adverts for tights, nine times out of ten you’re looking at men’s legs, not women’s legs.

I didn’t know that.

They just have better shape. I think men really don’t show off their legs enough. Miniskirts for men are always done in a bit of an “out there,” comedic way, but that suit with a skirt was quite nice.

It actually looked believable as something that a serious man in a double-breasted blazer might wear.

I would like it if eventually there’s a middle ground where male miniskirts can be digested by the mass market. For the time being, we’ve got kilts. I definitely feel at my most attractive in a kilt.

Do you take good care of your clothes?

I’m starting to. I used to just come home and throw everything on the floor, but since doing my clear-out I’ve got much more of a routine. I take them off, fold them up or hang them in their designated space. I always make my bed before I leave, too. I never used to do that. I don’t know if it’s because I’m sober.

When did you stop drinking?

Earlier this year. Then I fell off the wagon a bit in the summer, but I’ve been sober for ten weeks. Everything just falls into place a lot easier.

Does that make you feel good, making your bed? It makes me feel good.

I love coming home to a made bed. It’s just feeling like you are looking after yourself. In the past I was so much more about putting on a show, and because of the way my life and label took off – starting a club night then turning that into a label – it was all about being the “Loverboy.”

You had to embody a character.

Yes, and that’s fine. I’m glad I did it. I had a lot of fun and I really did enjoy myself, but I really wasn’t myself for quite a while.

Was that reflected in the clear-out? Have you kept certain things while other things that were more “Loverboy” have gone?

They’re still there, but they are folded away.

Talk me through what you’re wearing today.

I’ll start from the bottom. So, these are Dr. Martens, but from a Yohji Yamamoto collection. I was going to wear my platforms but I really couldn’t be arsed. Then I’ve got these big, stripy socks on. I always pull them up as high as they can go. And then I’ve got my Spring Summer ’19 navy and white polka-dot-print trousers. Then a Loverboy jumper.

Which is tucked in.

But only at the front.

What’s that called? A French tuck?

Is that what that is called?

I’ve got no idea.

Did you just make that up?

I think someone said that to me once, but I have no idea, really.

A French tuck. I’m going to use that! I’m definitely going to use that at my next show. Okay, then under my jumper I’ve got on a Comme shirt, which is nice and worn in. I was debating whether or not to get rid of it because it’s so worn.

I quite appreciate that in a cotton shirt, when it’s almost papery.

I’m into that. I’m also wearing a little red bandana scarf that I got from my friend Niall. And then a little black beret and some jewellery. This silver band is something my grandmother gave me. My mum and my grandparents lived in Liberia, in West Africa, for 18 years. I think it’s meant to ward off evil.

Very useful.

Yes, although I have to take it off when I’m drawing because it digs into my hand.

You also have a beard at the moment. Which is quite impressive. How long did that take to grow?

I get a five o’clock shadow incredibly quickly. If I shaved this morning, I would have stubble by now and it’s only the early afternoon. I really like having a beard. I’ve definitely been getting more male attention since having it. Do you ever grow a beard?

I’m incapable of growing one. My facial hair just grows in a patchy mess, so I shave every other day to keep things neat.

Well, some people have it and some people don’t. It suits you though, being clean shaven. And you have nice hair.

Thank you. I’ve got very hairy legs, if that counts for anything. Want to see? (Rolls up trouser leg)

Oh wow, very nice. Do you have a hairy chest as well?

I do not. Just the legs. Do you have any tattoos?

Yeah, Jupiter.

The planet?

On my chest, look. (Pulls down the neck of his jumper)

It’s massive. Is that your astrological planet?

No, I was just obsessed with Jupiter as a kid. I often say it’s because it’s the ruling planet for Sagittarius – my mum’s sign – but really it’s just because I like it. It’s beautiful, it’s stunning, and it’s one of the reasons we’re not being pummelled by asteroids.

You run a lot now, don’t you?

Yeah, I go running a lot. I went this morning. I love it. I’m looking slim.

You’re looking good.

People have commented on it recently. I run as much as possible. It’s such a nice, cathartic thing. I’m not going out dancing as much, I’m not going clubbing, so that’s a good way to engage with music. I’m actually running the 2019 London Marathon.

Incredible. Who are you doing it for?

Dementia Revolution. Look, here’s my official top. I’ve not worn it yet, but it says “Loverboy” on it. I need to practise running in it so I don’t get nipple chafe. I said I’d raise ten grand for them and I’m a bit worried I can’t.

You can do it. One thing I love about sports is that it opens up new opportunities for dressing up. What do you wear when you go running?

I’ve got a Les Girls Les Boys thing that they sent me. It’s a weird two-piece jogging bottoms and sweater which works, but I ran today in shorts. I haven’t really gotten into trying on lots of sports stuff yet.

It’s one of my favourite things.

Maybe I should. What sports do you do?

I run and I play football.

What’s your go-to brand for football?

It depends on what team I’m playing for. But if I’m wearing whatever I want, I wear dark blue Nike shorts. I bought some amazing boots from Adidas recently that are silver and blue – they look like space boots. And I’ve got a lot of Italian national team shirts, which are a nice colour of blue.

Are you Italian?

A little bit.

I can tell – it’s the brows.

Are they a giveaway?

And your legs, too! I’m going to dress up more with my sports clothing.

You should. Good running kit, a flattering top. It can feel quite powerful dressing up that way, and especially coming back from a run.

Oh my god, I feel so empowered when I come off a run. I’m red and sweating and people are, like, “He’s done something.” People can feel the energy radiating off you. I fucking love it.

Can I ask why your family lived in Liberia for so long?

My granddad was a railway safety engineer, he was an incredible man, and he was helping to build this railway that was going across West Africa. My mum lived there intermittently, so she was there for 18 years but she got her schooling in Scotland. My grandparents lived in this community that was a bit shut off from the world; it was full of Swedish workers who were also working on the railway.

It sounds like an incredible life.

That style of living also crept into my life as well, with my dad being in the army, because in army housing, everyone lives in the same type of houses. All dads do the same thing. Then you have the army-wives thing. When my mum and dad divorced, we went to live in a council estate in Scotland… Sorry, I don’t know where this is going.

It’s fine. You’ve mentioned your dad a couple of times and his being in the military. In terms of your interest in clothes it seems like a bit of a reference point for you.

It’s funny, because, if you think about it, I’m a very colourful, gay version of what he would look like: military boots, military beret. He has always been into his appearance. He’s very much into his looks but in a “doesn’t like to admit it” kind of way. I have a lot of memories of him shining his shoes or steaming his beret.

You have to steam berets?

Yeah, to make them really perfect. He was a very attractive man, my dad. My mum as well. Fucking hell, my mum is stunning. They were a really gorgeous couple.

Do you want to talk about some other style influences?

I talk about this all the time, but really, it’s The Horrors. That was the first time, as a teen in Scotland, that I thought, “I just want to look exactly like this.” I’ve never wanted to look more like anything, ever: the skinniest jeans, pointy winklepicker shoes or Chelsea boots with a curved heel, and massive hair. It allowed me to channel being gay, but in some ways it was safer, because it was ambiguous. My first and only boyfriend, who is no longer my boyfriend, was very much that. It’s sort of my taste.

It’s interesting that you are so influenced by them, because their look was essentially Hedi Slimane at Dior, and that aesthetic doesn’t really show in your work.

The thing is, when the new Celine came out, I fucking loved it. I’ll always love that look. That’s the look I’m attracted to; that’s what I want my future boyfriend to look like. That’s my thing; that’s what I’m really attracted to.

And yet the return of that aesthetic drew some criticism for perhaps not being representative enough of what people want or need now. Whereas you are championed as being this figurehead of a new way of dressing.

It’s funny that it doesn’t really show in my work. I see it as being somewhat separate – that sort of restrictiveness. If I was suddenly to get another house to do, then that would be fun as a fresh start.

Is taking over at a house something that you are interested in?

Oh yeah, massively. I’d love to.

What’s your dream house?

I don’t know if I’m allowed to say.

Because you are in conversations with somewhere?

I can’t say anything.

That in itself is quite interesting.

Obviously there are things I want to master here, there’s lots of stuff that needs to be tied up, and it’s a small business – we need to make as much effort as possible to make sure we keep ourselves afloat, that staff are paid on time, that we hit targets. But I don’t see myself only doing Loverboy for ten years.

And do you think you’ll keep showing in London, and keep showing during men’s? Or do you ever think about switching?

I’d never want to feel that I was abandoning London. But I don’t know – I love doing womenswear now and I would never want to feel too restricted. If you look at our market, the majority of it is younger women and then a strong clientele of more mature women. That’s the thing about Loverboy. You can say it’s this or it’s that, but to me it’s very amorphous. I mean, it started as a club night and now it’s a label.